Monica is one half of east London’s Tayēr + Elementary. Her and partner Alex Kratena have had to change their business to survive 2020. Monica tells us why the basis of the bar business needs to change long-term if it is to survive beyond 2021.
Someone asked me the other day ‘Do you thinks bars will change as a result of this pandemic?’ It’s a big question, and perhaps not one with a singular answer.
2020 was a year that forced us to rethink, re-imagine and re-adjust more than any other year I have experienced in my 20+ years in hospitality. The first lockdown showed us how important it is to be social, but ironically, by not being able to visit their favourite bars, it also showed the general public that making tasty drinks is not as easy as many had previously thought.
This discovery led to the re-introduction of the RTD – ready to drink – but now with a cocktail makeover, which helped many cocktail bars, mine included, during the lengthy period of closure. But it also gave us hope. Hope that this would be the turning point where society would finally start to recognise the efforts and hard work that goes into making drinks and operating bars, but also the appreciation of what nightlife and wet-led venues has contributed in terms of culture and heritage over the years.
Fast forward a few months, however, and it would become crystal clear that politicians and governments across the globe lack the understanding and knowledge around how to best support and navigate our industry. Throughout curfews, various restrictions, lockdown 2.0, lockdown 3.0 and tiers 1,2,3,4 and now 5 (?) our industry has continued to be scapegoated and penalised for the increase (or lack of decrease) in transmissions – whilst the numbers, statistics and science show a very different reality.
So, going back to that original question, ‘Do you thinks bars will change as a result of this pandemic?’ for now my answer is this: Yes, but they need to change not only for the drinker, but also for us – us the people who work in bars, operate bars and own bars. We need to rethink the foundations of our industry – how we hire people, what contracts employees are given, the salaries and security provided.
2020 taught us that if we want change, we need to create it ourselves. If we want progress, we need to push for it – and most importantly – if we as an industry want to get through this, we need to fight for it. For us.
The hospitality industry is a resilient bunch, and we will continue to do what we always do – take care of our guests – but before we go back to that, now is the time to take care of ourselves and each other.